Rescue efforts are underway to find a group of missing climbers including world-renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja following an avalanche on a mountain in Pakistan, the Alpine Club of Pakistan said.
Emergency crews on the ground and in helicopters are scouring the Karakoram mountain range for the 10 climbers, including one American, who are believed to have been on 8,047-meter-tall Broad Peak when an avalanche struck around midday Thursday.
Four bodies have been recovered by ground teams so far, said Irfan Arshad Khan, the Alpine Club’s president. They have not been identified.
Along with Purja and American Mallory Geis, the group included climbers from Oman, Pakistan and Nepal, according to the Alpine Club.
None of them have been heard from since the avalanche. The location of four climbers is showing up on GPS, according to Alpine Club general secretary Ayaz Ahmed Shigri.
The weather was clear on Friday morning, and was expected to stay that way through the weekend, Shigri said.
Purja, also known as “Nims,” made history in 2019, climbing all of the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters (26,300 feet) in just over six months. His feat was chronicled in the hit Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.”
Purja was a soldier for 16 years with the British army, in the Brigade of Gurkhas and later the Special Boat Service, an elite unit of the UK’s Royal Navy.
His mountaineering career began when he trekked to Everest Base Camp in 2012, an experience that “fired his passion and ambition for the mountains,” according to the website of his foundation, Nimsdai, which supports mountain communities in Nepal.
CNN has reached out to Purja’s foundation for comment.
Purja quickly became “addicted” to climbing, he told CNN in 2019.
He was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire in 2018, for his military service and mountaineering achievements.
Purja set off on his record-breaking summit of the world’s 14 highest peaks in April 2019, finishing 189 days later in October, smashing a record set by South Korean Kim Chang-ho in 2013 – by more than seven years.
Purja and his team also carried out a number of daring rescues, often putting their own lives in danger.
He described his feat to CNN as an “extremely, horrendously good experience” – despite his oxygen being stolen while climbing Lhotse, Earth’s fourth-highest peak.
The speed record for summiting the world’s tallest peaks was broken again in 2023 by a Norwegian woman, Kristin Harila, and a Nepali man, Tenjin Sherpa, who summited all 14 peaks in three months and one day.
Purja brought global attention to the issue of overcrowding on Mount Everest, posting a photograph of a “traffic jam” on the upper slopes of the world’s highest peak during his summit in 2019. The resulting backlash to the images led the Nepalese government to draft new climbing rules.
In 2024, Purja became the fastest person to summit all 14 of the peaks without supplementary oxygen.
Summiting just one “8,000er,” let alone all 14, is challenging enough given climbers have to enter the “death zone” – a mountaineering term that describes altitudes over about 8,000 meters where the human body is exposed to insufficient levels of oxygen.
The 12th-tallest peak in the world, Broad Peak is considered slightly less technically difficult than other peaks such as its notorious neighbor K2, but it is prone to harsh and unpredictable weather.
In 2013, three Iranian climbers died on descent after summiting Broad Peak.
Pakistan’s worst modern mountaineering disaster occurred in 2008, when 11 climbers were killed after an avalanche on K2.
After climbing Broad Peak, Purja had planned to climb Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth-highest mountain, located in the Himalayas, to become the first person in history to climb all 14 “8,000ers” twice, according to a post on his X account Monday.
“Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down,” he wrote.
“I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.” (CNN)
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